Assembly Instructions for Linton Mill Boiler House

Stonemillmodels.com

 

Please read through the instructions before beginning assembly.

 

1.)Remove any flashing or blemishes from hydrocal castings. If any of the castings are broken and beyond repair please let us know and we`ll replace them. Notice that three of the wall castings have ends that are not at 90 degree angles. Don't change these angles while cleaning up and fitting the castings together.

This building is meant to have a sub-level floor 3 feet beneath ground level. This means it will be sunk 3/4" into your scenery base OR you will need to cut 3/4" off the bottom of the castings. You could of course leave the building as is without sinking it into the scenery base and build stairs up to the front door with a 3 foot tall loading dock at the double doors.

The sub-level floor is prototypical of this building and lends itself to interior detailing.

 

2.)Assemble the four wall castings as in the picture below.

When assembled correctly there should be brick detail that wraps entirely around the building.

A and B are 90 degree angles. Glue A first and then glue B followed by C and then D.  We are gluing D last since it's seam is partially covered by the chimney base and smokestack so a perfect fit here is not that crucial. .Glue chimney base to structure as in photo below. I use ACC and ACC accelerant to glue hydrocal together but you could also use wood glue or epoxy. My method is to go one joint at a time by using a small machinists sqaure on the inside of the joint to make sure I'm starting off perfectly square. I then hold the two castings together with one hand,check for squareness again with the other hand,grab the ACC bottle and put a big drop right on the top of the inside corner letting it run down towards the table. Right before it hits the table I spray it with accelerant to cure it. As long as you let the glue fully cure before trying to move the parts you'll end up with a very strong bond that can quickly be handled. Assembling structures this way goes very quickly and most of the time involved is spent examining and test fitting the castings before you even touch the glue. The serious drawback to this method is that you only get one chance to get it right,hydrocal only bends so much (extremely little) to make up for misalignments.

 3.) The edge of the right side wall will be a slight bit taller than the rear wall at joint C. File it down until the top of right side wall is flush with the top of the rear wall. Glue brick strip onto the top of rear wall.


4.)Place wood roof material onto top of building and trace the outside shape of top of building onto wood from below. Cut out shape on wood and you should end up with a piece that fits perfectly on top of building.

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It's a good idea to paint the brick walls now before adding any of the details to the building. I painted the pilot model with markers and black ink/alcohol wash. I then used a Pantone marker #154T to color all the bricks followed by a Pantone marker #484T on about half of the bricks. I then used a Pantone marker #432T on random bricks for the "clinkers". I brushed baking powder into the mortar lines and sealed it in place with Krylon 1311 matte sealer and then followed this with another spray of black ink wash. I'll have more details on using Pantone markers to paint hydrocal bricks on my web site in the near future.

 

5.)Lights. Use brass rod to make stems as in the photo below. You may have to drill holes in the shade and base if the holes in the castings don't go all the way through.

6.)Doors. Use the head of a common pin to make doorknob on single door. Drill two holes in each door plate on the large double doors and insert [ shaped wire to make door handles..

 

 

7.)Glue smokestack pipe onto resin base and place a resin ring at the bottom. Use extra rings on pipe anywhere you want there to be a joint where two pieces of pipe are connected. Glue cleanout door onto brick chimney base. Glue vent into opening in wall next to chimney base.

8.) Use supplied resin trim to go around front and sides of building. Heat bottom of drain pipes with hair dryer and bend to make elbow. Glue onto building butting up against the bottom of trim. Cut small piece of half round styrene and glue onto trim directly above drain pipes. (see picture below).

9.) Roof. Use supplied tape for tarpaper on roof. Start at the lowest point and lay the tape horizontally overlapping about 1/8" as you work your way to the top. Leave extra tape hanging off the sides and cut flush to edge of trim with sharp blade.

Paint tape with quick drying craft paint to prevent roof from getting soaked and warping. We suggest speeding up the drying process with a hair dryer.

 

 

10.) Ventilators and roof monitor. Glue top and bottom of ventilators together and glue onto roof. Assemble roof monitor as in photo below. Windows in the prototype were hinged to swing open at bottom and you can model this by gluing the windows in that position if you wish.. Cut thin balsa wood into two pieces each measuring 2 1/2" x 1 1/8" and glue onto roof of monitor. Use supplied tape for tarpaper. Glue monitor onto roof parallel to front and side of building.

 

11.)The last step is to glue a piece of the supplied styrene strip onto top of rear wall. Also paint and install round fire alarm and electric meter.

12.) Stand back and admire your work!